The green, quiet north - twin crater lakes, the tallest waterfall on the island, mountain coffee villages, and dolphins breaking the water off Lovina at sunrise. Fewer tourists, bigger landscapes.
Two crater lakes sitting side by side in an old volcanic caldera, separated by a thin strip of jungle. The viewpoint on the ridge above gives you both in one frame - best in the morning, before the highland mist rolls in.
Widely called the most beautiful waterfall in Bali - a cluster of tall falls dropping into a jungle amphitheatre. It's a proper trek down and back up (about an hour each way, plus a river crossing), so bring shoes you don't mind soaking. Absolutely worth it.
The temple that appears to float on Lake Beratan, wrapped in cool highland air and morning mist. It's on Indonesia's 50,000 rupiah note for a reason - and it's on the way north, so it slots in perfectly.
A cool mountain village ringed by clove, cacao, and coffee plantations, with valley views running down to the north coast. We stop for a tasting and a proper look at how Balinese coffee actually gets from tree to cup.
A 35-metre single drop crashing into a pool deep in the rainforest, reached by an easy paved path through coffee and clove trees. Much gentler than Sekumpul, and a good place to cool off without a serious hike.
Twin streams falling into a clear turquoise pool, hidden at the bottom of a jungle trek that keeps most of the crowds away. One of the few waterfalls in Bali where you can comfortably swim right at the base.
A traditional outrigger boat leaves the black-sand beach before dawn, and within half an hour you're surrounded by wild spinner dolphins racing the swell. This one requires an overnight stay in the north - ask us and we'll build the itinerary around it.